Ganni, the Danish brand celebrated for its innovative designs and coveted by the fashion-savvy, recently found itself at the center of a fashion week controversy. The brand, known for its creative approach, faced criticism for its fall 2019 collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The show, titled “Life On Earth,” aimed to promote sustainability and the global #GanniGirl but ended up sparking significant backlash.
The Controversial Mix: High Fashion and Vulnerable Realities
At the core of this controversy was the use of images by award-winning National Geographic photojournalist Ami Vitale as a backdrop for the runway show. Ami Vitale’s work is widely recognized for its documentation of life in underdeveloped countries such as India and Sri Lanka, with a particular focus on the lives of women in these regions. Models in Ganni’s show elegantly walked past these images, a stark contrast to the fashionable and luxurious clothing they were wearing.
Instagram’s Influential Voice: Anaa Nadim Saber Speaks Out
Instagram influencer Anaa Nadim Saber, who runs the popular blog Our Second Skin, was among the first to raise her voice against the juxtaposition of high fashion and photos of underprivileged women. Saber, who is known for her thoughtful commentary on fashion, questioned how this presentation of women from marginalized backgrounds aligned with sustainability and what benefits it brought to these women. In her candid Instagram post, Saber expressed her discomfort with the show, emphasizing that these women were essentially used as props and marketing tools, rather than being given a platform for genuine representation.
Beyond the Aesthetic: The “White Gaze” and the Need for Inclusivity
Saber’s Instagram succinctly summed up the sentiment of many who saw the show. She boldly stated, “My people are not your aesthetic,” emphasizing how these images were perceived through a “white gaze,” reducing the women to mere aesthetic elements rather than recognizing them as individuals with their own stories and agency. Her criticism urged the fashion industry to look beyond surface-level diversity and inclusivity buzzwords and engage in genuine introspection about their actions.
Furthermore, Saber questioned the absence of diversity within the decision-making process. She wondered if anyone involved in the show’s creation understood how this portrayal would be perceived by non-white audience members. This underscored the importance of having diverse teams within the fashion industry to ensure a more inclusive and culturally sensitive approach.
The Exploitation Dilemma: Uncompensated Participation
Saber also raised a critical point concerning the exploitation of these women for commercial gain. She pointed out that it was highly unlikely that the women in these photographs received any compensation for their involvement in the show, while the brand profited from their images. This, in essence, exposed a larger issue within the fashion industry, where women of color, like those in the pictures, are often subject to poor wages and harsh working conditions in sweatshops that produce clothing for many Western brands.
Saber’s critique delved into the heart of a broader problem plaguing the fashion industry. She emphasized that the industry’s claims of progressiveness and support for diversity, inclusivity, and sustainability often fall short when it comes to real-world implementation. Her message was clear: the industry needs to confront its internalized colonial mentality and do better in representing and respecting people of all backgrounds.
Ganni’s Response: Intent Versus Impact
After posting her criticisms on Instagram feed and her blog, Ganni responded to the fashion show controversy. The brand acknowledged that they had used Ami Vitale’s photographs to set the stage for the show, explaining that these images were selected to reflect the photographer’s extensive body of work. According to Ganni, these images were meant to showcase the beauty of nature, including surreal beauty and the enduring power of the human spirit.
While Ganni’s response expressed an intent to convey a positive message through the use of these images, it recognized the sensitivity of the issue. The brand issued an apology, acknowledging the mistakes and the unintended insensitivity. Ganni pledged to learn from this experience and promised to translate the insights gained into future actions to ensure that such incidents do not occur again.
Heading: Fashion’s Role and Responsibility in Society
In the world of fashion, where innovation and creativity often thrive, the incident surrounding Ganni’s Copenhagen Fashion Week show serves as a reminder of the industry’s responsibility to be mindful of the impact of its choices. It highlights the importance of engaging in open dialogues about diversity, inclusion, and representation and moving beyond surface-level gestures. It also underscores the necessity of fostering diversity within fashion houses, both in creative and decision-making roles.
Fashion as a Force for Positive Change
Fashion has the power to be a force for positive change, but it can only achieve this when brands and designers approach it with the awareness and sensitivity that reflects the complexities of the world we live in. Ganni’s response to the controversy is a step in the right direction, and it serves as a valuable lesson for the entire fashion industry: never underestimate the significance of how you present your brand and its values to the world.
Conclusion: A Valuable Lesson for the Fashion Industry
It’s a call to action for fashion brands and designers to go beyond surface-level inclusivity and truly engage with the complexities of a diverse and global audience. As the world becomes more interconnected and diverse, fashion, as a reflection of our times, should lead the way in embracing and celebrating this diversity. Ganni’s response to this controversy is a crucial step forward, and it serves as a reminder that the fashion industry has a vital role to play in promoting positive change and inclusivity in our world.
